 |
I flew to Winnipeg for the Jets. I left with memories of brunch, butterflies and a hot-cold spa under a prairie sky.
But this year, like so many Canadians, I wanted to keep my travel dollars at home. And playoff hockey gave me the nudge I needed to make my first visit to Winnipeg.
 |
| The Fort Garry Hotel is a former railway hotel turned boutique gem. |
My base for the weekend was the iconic Fort Garry Hotel, a former railway hotel turned boutique gem. While its storied past includes guests from Laurence Olivier to King George VI, its upscale rooms contain every modern convenience a traveller could need.
When I visited, the lobby was decked out in Christmas trees and garlands — at Easter. Hmmm, I thought … maybe Winnipeg really loves the holidays? But no: It turned out Hallmark was filming a Christmas movie here. I stayed fully selfie-ready during my stay in case a celeb wandered by but alas, no luck this time.
 |
| The Forks is Winnipeg’s top attraction. |
Guests here are a five-minute walk from The Forks, Winnipeg’s top attraction. I’d slated this to be my first stop, and a friendly hotel staffer sent me on my way with a map and a tip: “Cut through the train station; it’s shorter.”
This turned out to be great advice, and not just for the few minutes it saved me.
As soon as I entered Union Station, I felt like I’d stepped into a bygone era. At any minute now, I thought, sepia-toned businessmen with fedoras on their heads, leather briefcases and newspapers in hand, would come streaming through the towering limestone arches.
But except for a dance crew filming a routine under the green and gold dome — because, why not? — I had this grand Beaux-Arts architectural gem to myself. Adding to its cool factor, I later learned the station had been designed by the same architects behind New York’s Grand Central Terminal.
At The Forks I headed straight for the Market, joining a buzzy throng of families, friends and even a bachelorette party in search of sustenance. With local artisans and global eats as the top draws, this is a next-level people-watching hub.
But The Forks is much more than just the market. Among many other attractions this site is home to an Indigenous cultural centre, a children’s museum and one of the most striking buildings in Canada: The Canadian Museum for Human Rights. After bacon and eggs, this was my next priority.
 |
| Visitors travel in a symbolic journey from darkness to light. |
Good thing I was fortified because at this glass and stone marvel, visitors ascend to each museum level via an alabaster-clad walkway as they travel in a symbolic journey from darkness to light. There are also elevators for visitors who’d rather skip the nearly one-kilometre climb.
The seventh-floor exhibit, Inspiring Change, hit me hardest. Visitors are invited to leave personal messages about human rights, and many were scribbled in a child’s handwriting. All of them packed a punch.
“I will stand up for and protect those who are struggling.” — Lisa, Manitoba
“Love is being nice and gentle to everyone. Each life matters.” — Miloni, India
“I believe water is a human right.” — Gabby, Wisconsin
 |
| Forever Bicycles is a dazzling installation by Ai Weiwei. |
Before I left The Forks, I had one final stop: Forever Bicycles, a dazzling installation by Ai Weiwei. Composed of 1,266 silver bike frames stacked in intricate layers, it shimmered in the light, an optical illusion that seemed to shift and blur the longer I looked at it.
I hadn’t expected to find a towering artwork by a world-renowned artist just … there … set on an open berm. But by now, I was coming to expect the unexpected in Winnipeg.
 |
| The Shirley Richardson Butterfly Garden is just one of four biomes at The Leaf . |
Another case in point: The Leaf at Assiniboine Park. I knew this indoor horticultural attraction housed the tallest indoor waterfall in Canada and yes, it’s six storeys high. But the real treasure for me was the less-famous butterfly garden.
What a delight to step into this oasis of exotic butterflies, filled with children alternately squealing in wonder or sitting absolutely still, willing a butterfly to land on their heads.
The Shirley Richardson Butterfly Garden is just one of four biomes at The Leaf and if I’d had more time, I would have fully explored the others instead of just strolling through. But even an hour spent floating with butterflies, if only in spirit, was transformative.
 |
| Thermëa Spa Village is just a short ride share from downtown Winnipeg. |
My true exhale came at Thermëa Spa Village, just a short ride share from downtown Winnipeg. I spent a few hours drifting between steamy outdoor pools and steamier saunas; however, the standout was the Aufguss ritual, a mesmerizing ceremony I had read about but never experienced.
Alerted by the sound of a gong, I joined a hushed procession of wellness seekers into the Finnish sauna where the ritual would take place.
A bucket of ice balls infused with essential oils was brought in and a “ritual artisan,” a tall blonde staffer, carefully placed two of them on the hot stones.
Then … thwack, thwack! The artisan struck the ice balls with a long wooden ladle and began twirling a towel gracefully through the air to disperse the clouds of aromatic steam.
As the humidity spiked and my body temperature soared, I made a bold (for me) and spur-of-the-moment decision to plunge into the icy pool just outside the sauna. It was the first time I’d ever done the “cold” portion of a hot-cold-rest thermal cycle and I emerged feeling both exhilarated and peacock-proud of myself.
Finally, a word about food: Now I know Winnipeg has its share of fine dining. But I’m seriously committed to brunch, and all the research I’d done pointed me in the direction of Clementine Cafe in the city’s historical Exchange District.
I’m happy to report that behind a modest facade and down a wooden stairwell, I found a gem that absolutely lived up to all the hype.
 |
| Braised bacon benedict ... incredible! |
My braised bacon benedict was indulgent, and the rosemary aioli potatoes were worth the trip alone. My pro tip: Be early or be prepared to queue. (Ask me how I know.)
By the time I started packing to head home, I knew this trip would rate as one of my most memorable ever.
 |
| The Jet were great, but the city of Winnipeg was incredible. |
I came for hockey and the chance to attend the boisterous Winnipeg Whiteout street party. I left with a new fondness for a city that quietly entices — with charm, playfulness and just the right amount of quirk.
This article first ran in the Victoria Times Colonist on May 10, 2025
0 comments